It was Karl Lagerfeldsa国际传媒檚 final curtain sa国际传媒� even though he wasnsa国际传媒檛 there.
Celebrities, models and fashion industry peers who had gathered at Chanelsa国际传媒檚 catwalk show Tuesday held a minutesa国际传媒檚 silence to bid adieu to the iconic couturier, who died last month and did not want a public funeral.
Guests wept as his final collection for the Parisian house, co-designed by new artistic director Virginie Viard, was then presented at Parissa国际传媒� Grand Palais amid a cinematographic set: a mountain village covered in peaceful snow high above the clouds.
It was, it could be said, Lagerfeldsa国际传媒檚 runway in the sky.
Stars including Penelope Cruz spoke to The Associated Press to pay tribute to the legend who left an indelible mark on the global fashion industry in a six-decade career.
Some of Tuesdaysa国际传媒檚 highlights at Paris Fashion Week:
LAGERFELDsa国际传媒橲 FINAL SENDOFF
Designer Lagerfeld had made his antipathy for a public funeral clear. So Chanelsa国际传媒檚 fall and winter show, the last collection of a couturier that had designed hundreds, was a fitting sendoff.
The display featured both genuine emotion and ironic spectacle, Lagerfeldsa国际传媒檚 trademark.
Ahead of the runway show, its models, including Cruz, stood solemnly in the fake snow by an Alpine chalet and resting ski equipment. A gentle bell rang out as poignant recordings of Lagerfeldsa国际传媒檚 voice boomed out and echoed across the vast venue.
Guests including actresses Marion Cotillard and Kristen Stewart, models Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell, singer Janelle Monae and U.S. Vogue Editor Anna Wintour observed a one-minute silence. Many wept.
In a moment that perfectly captured Lagerfeldsa国际传媒檚 universe, the initial silence was interrupted by the bark of a small white dog kept in a sparkling Chanel shopping basket by a front-row guest.
READ MORE: Chanel: Iconic couturier Karl Lagerfeld has died
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A CLASSIC CHANEL COLLECTION
The show used the Alpine theme as a touchstone to produce a classical Chanel winter collection.
It was all about keeping warm, with short ankle boots protected beneath tweed fedoras in looks the house said belonged to sa国际传媒渆legant mountain dwellers.sa国际传媒� Oversize, woolen statement coats that hung heavily had a distinct historic feel, a mood that Lagerfeld often liked to evoke.
They were twinned with contrasting patterns sa国际传媒� such as houndstooth in thick, baggy pants sa国际传媒� to produce a clever visual kinesis.
Ethnic and Alpine motifs fused as white patterning on cinched and belted A-line skirts, and ski-wear came in eye-popping hues of pink, blue and red.
The obligatory tweed jackets this season were trimmed with a thick wool braid.
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THE FUTURE FOR CHANEL
This was the first official collaboration between Lagerfeld and his longtime studio head Virginie Viard, who will succeed him at the house.
Much like the Chanel designs, the creative handover appeared seamless.
Itsa国际传媒檚 perhaps unsurprising: Although Viard has held no official role as designer until now, she is known to have worked closely with the late designer across all of Chanelsa国际传媒檚 numerous design channels, including couture.
Itsa国际传媒檚 too early to tell if Viard will lead the powerhouse in a new direction, but signs are that she wonsa国际传媒檛.
The fact that Chanel chose someone who has worked in exuberant Lagerfeldsa国际传媒檚 shadow for years indicates it hopes to continue his financially successful vision and approach that catapulted the iconic house from the creative wilderness during the 1980s into the multibillion-dollar powerhouse it is today.
Management could have chosen a successor with a big, splashy name sa国际传媒� such as Lanvinsa国际传媒檚 former designer Alber Elbaz, an icon in the industry, whosa国际传媒檚 currently unemployed.
The fact they didnsa国际传媒檛 speaks volumes.
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STARS REMEMBER LAGERFELD
Penelope Cruz, who modelled in the Chanel show, shared a memory of a midnight walk with Lagerfeld in New York in December.
sa国际传媒淔or me that was a magical moment, walking hand in hand in Central Park at night in winter sa国际传媒� hearing his wonderful and funny stories,sa国际传媒� she said.
Cruz said she will remember the kindness of Lagerfeld, whom shesa国际传媒檇 dreamt of meeting since being little. She recalled that he took care of her father during a posh Paris dinner.
sa国际传媒淗ow kind and respectful he was to my dad, even if they didnsa国际传媒檛 speak the same language sa国际传媒� that always stayed with me,sa国际传媒� she told the AP.
American singer and songwriter Janelle Monae spoke of her surprise at being given a sketch Lagerfeld had drawn of her during a performance in Russia.
sa国际传媒淗e was seated in a theatre. I was on stage. And he sat there the whole time and sketched me dancing,sa国际传媒� she said. sa国际传媒淚 didnsa国际传媒檛 know his talents were so big.sa国际传媒�
Monae said she still has it sa国际传媒渋n a little box in my house. Itsa国际传媒檚 very emotional.sa国际传媒�
German fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth recalled how she would always speak with the polyglot German-born designer backstage in their native tongue after each Chanel show comparing it to sa国际传媒渂eing in a bubble in between thousands of people.sa国际传媒�
She said that Lagerfeld, who famously hid behind shades sa国际传媒� known as his mask sa国际传媒� once took them off in front of her.
She said he turned to her and said: sa国际传媒淚 donsa国际传媒檛 like to show my eyes. Because they look sad.sa国际传媒�
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LOUIS VUITTON CREATES POMPIDOU CENTER SET
Louis Vuitton staged an incredible recreation of one of Parissa国际传媒� most famous, and controversial, buildings: The Pompidou Center.
Guests including actresses Emma Stone, Alicia Vikander and Jennifer Connelly gathered in an annex inside the oldest courtyard of the Louvre and looked around inquisitively as they discovered another Parisian landmark with its famed blue, white, red and green piping.
The link between the set and the clothes was somewhat tenuous, save for colorful elements of geometry.
Designer Nicolas Ghesquiere said he was, above all, inspired by the spirit of Pompidousa国际传媒檚 environs, in the bustling centre of Paris.
sa国际传媒淚tsa国际传媒檚 a fascinating incubator of a neighbourhoodsa国际传媒� I love that impression of a sartorial melting pot,sa国际传媒� he said.
Many of the 57 tightly fitting styles that riffed on the 80s were cinched by a large square buckle belt at the waist.
And though Ghesquiere has earned a reputation for minimalism, this collection simply teemed with bustling detail.
Pops of bright colour created contrasts in ensembles that emphasized the neck.
A series of Mondrian and geometric-print looks evoked paintings exhibited in the Pompidou, which houses Francesa国际传媒檚 National Museum of Modern Art.
But they came across a little heavy-handed, delivered in overly bold colours.
The diverse collection comprised many beautiful garments, but it was a little hard to pin down.
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MIU MIU GETS DARK
Miuccia Prada was another designer to draw in the stars at the art-infused collection of her little sister brand Miu Miu in Paris.
Actors Joel Edgerton and Chloe Sevigny joined sa国际传媒淕ame of Thronessa国际传媒� star Gwendoline Christie on the front row.
A darker mood than normal pervaded the fall-winter designs.
Models in sharp black capes or gently sculpted 90s camouflage print paraded beside decor that comprised artwork with screens projecting stark and figurative images of people and contemporary life.
Dark tights came on all the 48 looks
This season, Prada adorned the neck with silk bows, ribbons and circular bands of fur in the styles of the 70s.
At one moment the dark musing turned to joy: The camouflage print blossomed into a bright set of florals on loose flower-power 70s skirts.
It was a clever twist sa国际传媒� typical of the atypical designer.
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Thomas Adamson is at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonsa国际传媒擪
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This story has been corrected to fix the spelling of Janelle Monaesa国际传媒檚 surname.
