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Bitter Harvest: B.C.sa国际传媒檚 stone fruit farms pivot after deep-freeze devastation

Early signs point to a dismal year for peaches, apricots or nectarines as farmers look for support
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Jennifer Deol, the co-owner of There and Back Again Farms, stands near the farmsa国际传媒檚 peach orchard in Kelowna, B.C., on Tuesday, March 5, 2024. B.C. farmers are predicting at least a 90 per cent loss of this summersa国际传媒檚 harvest of fruit including peaches, apricots and nectarines. THE CANADIAN PRESS/Aaron Hemens

One of the first indicators of how bountiful a fruit harvest will be in British Columbia comes months before any peaches, apricots or nectarines start fattening on trees.

Like many other farmers, Jennifer Deol of There and Back Again Farms in Kelowna cuts off some peach branches and brings them into a warm greenhouse to see how well the buds bloom.

The farm has a history of producing massive peaches, softball-sized giants that it has documented on social media. Another farmer on the same land grew an 810-gram peach in 2016, and submitted it for a Guinness World Record, although the mark has since been surpassed.

But this year, not a single flower opened on the greenhouse branches. The trees had fallen victim to a devastating January cold snap.

sa国际传媒淲esa国际传媒檒l know (for sure) closer to May or June, because (with) different varieties, different trees, sometimes yousa国际传媒檒l get a little bit of crop,sa国际传媒 Deol said.

sa国际传媒淏ut itsa国际传媒檒l be 90 per cent, if not more, lost, based off of what wesa国际传媒檙e seeing on the peaches, on the apricots, on plums.sa国际传媒

Itsa国际传媒檚 about as bad as it gets for Deol and the rest of the farmers who produce the signature summer stone fruits in the province.

For smaller, often family-run farms in B.C., where even a successful harvest brings only a slim margin for profits, one lost season of fruit can be devastating. This year has some relying on crop diversification, while the president of the B.C. Fruit Growerssa国际传媒 Association says the government needs to act.

Association president Peter Simonsen said he expects harvests for peaches, apricots, nectarines and plums to be down at least 90 per cent.

At the same time, the BC Cherry Association has already warned crops could be sa国际传媒渄ramaticallysa国际传媒 reduced.

sa国际传媒淚tsa国际传媒檚 just kind of a depressing thing to go out and do all this work that you need to do, water the trees and care for the trees, (and) do that when theresa国际传媒檚 no fruit on them,sa国际传媒 Simonsen said.

Deol said the region saw a warmer-than-usual start to winter that meant fruit trees never went completely dormant and buds were seen swelling with activity in early January.

Then came the cold.

In mid-January, the B.C. Interior saw several days of frigid temperatures that dropped to -27 C in Kelowna, killing off those active buds.

Deol said it followed previous weather woes, including 2021sa国际传媒檚 heat dome followed by a harsh winter that killed off most of the fruit in 2022.

sa国际传媒淪o these compounding impacts are making it not only difficult to grow this fruit and supply it, but also make any money off of this land that wesa国际传媒檙e investing a lot into, to keep growing,sa国际传媒 she said.

In a good year, the farmsa国际传媒檚 four acres of peaches bring in about $80,000 and stone fruits combined represent about 20 per cent of the income from the 30-acre farm Deol and her husband run.

She said theysa国际传媒檒l be kept afloat this year in part thanks to their decision to diversify their crops, meaning theysa国际传媒檒l have a range of vegetables and apples to sell from their stand.

The income from Deolsa国际传媒檚 second job in communications will also help bridge the gap and continue to pay off debts that come with running the farm.

sa国际传媒淭here is absolutely no way you can farm in the Okanagan, and be small scale, and sell 100 per cent local, without bringing in additional income,sa国际传媒 she said.

She said they expect things to be sa国际传媒渧ery, very tight.sa国际传媒

sa国际传媒淛ust because theresa国际传媒檚 no peaches on the trees, you still have to put money toward keeping the trees healthy for next year,sa国际传媒 she said.

FARMERS AN sa国际传媒楨NDANGERED SPECIESsa国际传媒

Simonsen said British Columbia protects agricultural land but has sa国际传媒渇orgottensa国际传媒 about farms and farmers.

sa国际传媒淲esa国际传媒檙e an endangered species,sa国际传媒 he said.

sa国际传媒淵ou know, if there were 200 marmots left on Vancouver Island sa国际传媒 all kinds of effort would go into keeping them alive.sa国际传媒

He said the industry needs existing government programs meant to protect farmers through difficult years, to work the way they are meant to.

He said in years where fruit is sold at a low price, the crop insurance program funded by the provincial and federal governments only insures at a low value, making potential payouts less and less helpful.

sa国际传媒淲esa国际传媒檙e not protected adequately during the bad years and we donsa国际传媒檛 make enough money in the good years to let us get through these bad years,sa国际传媒 he said.

sa国际传媒淎nd so thatsa国际传媒檚 why yousa国际传媒檙e seeing a big erosion in the membership of associations like ours and the number of people who are still farming.sa国际传媒

The number of tree fruit farms in British Columbia has been in decline since data started being collected more than 60 years ago.

The province went from having 4,381 farms in 1961 to 2,091 in 2021, according to the most recent Statistics Canada census of agriculture.

Simonsen said the association is pushing for some of the complicated rules that dictate insurance payouts to be adjusted.

sa国际传媒淲esa国际传媒檇 like some of these rules changed, even just for this one year,sa国际传媒 he said. sa国际传媒(We want) our deductibles to be sa国际传媒 based on what we were making a few years ago, as opposed to what wesa国际传媒檙e making now.sa国际传媒

When asked whether she thought the current crop insurance program was adequate to support farmers, Pam Alexis, B.C.sa国际传媒檚 minister of agriculture and food, said she had discussed the issue with federal Agriculture Minister Lawrence MacAulay and it would be part of a meeting of provincial and territorial ministers in July.

sa国际传媒淚sa国际传媒檝e had this conversation with the federal minister, because I donsa国际传媒檛 think that these programs were intended for an almost a yearly investment or buy-in and he agrees that it needs to be looked at,sa国际传媒 she said in an interview.

sa国际传媒淭he federal government, along with all the provincial ministers, are looking at making some changes, because itsa国际传媒檚 not necessarily the best thing when we are slammed so many times with different weather extremes where farmers need to have that kind of support.sa国际传媒

Alexis said the province is looking to expand research into finding hardier grapes that can survive in extreme weather to include stone fruit.

She said theresa国际传媒檚 been sa国际传媒渟ignificantsa国际传媒 uptake in a $15-million replanting program announced last year aimed at helping farmers adapt to the changing environment and diversify their crops.

She said officials with her ministry are.in the process of assessing the damage done to fruit this season and promoting sa国际传媒渂usiness risk managementsa国际传媒 programs available to farmers, like AgriStability funding and crop insurance, to help in the short term.

sa国际传媒淔irst of all, theysa国际传媒檝e got to go assess the damage and then work through what program would be best,sa国际传媒 she said. sa国际传媒淎nd so thatsa国际传媒檚 what wesa国际传媒檝e got people on the ground doing right as we speak.sa国际传媒

LOOKING BEYOND YOU-PICK PEACHES

At West Kelownasa国际传媒檚 Payntersa国际传媒檚 Fruit Market, owner Jennay Oliver wonsa国际传媒檛 be offering you-pick peaches or apricots from the orchards behind her fruit stand this year but she still holds out hope that some of their hardy plum varieties may have survived the January freeze.

The 50-acre farm is split between fruit and vegetables, with peaches, apricots, plums, apple and pear trees on one half and ground crops including tomatoes, zucchini, cucumbers and squash on the other.

She estimates theysa国际传媒檙e out more than $100,000 in lost fruit this year but says the variety of crops they grow and sell allows them to weather some of the uncertainty.

sa国际传媒淪o for four months wesa国际传媒檙e harvesting something, which works really well for when we have a hail event, or we have a big freeze like we did in January. Not everything is susceptible or ready to be harvested at once.sa国际传媒

With peach picking not in the cards this summer, the farm is pivoting to something they first tried when the weather last took out their fruit in 2022.

sa国际传媒淲e did a you-pick tomato field and it was awesome,sa国际传媒 she said.

sa国际传媒淧eople really got into making salsa, and canning, and we had these really cheap you-pick tomatoes. And it was amazing. People were coming out and loving it still.sa国际传媒

The farm will also be offering you-pick flowers alongside an ice cream and coffee bar at the market.

While she expects to lose some tourism dollars from the people who would visit to buy fruit, Oliver said she hopes others will be enticed to visit by the beauty of the region and the other things theysa国际传媒檙e selling.

Deol said the difficult harvest makes it even more important for people to support local farmers who sell what they grow.

Oliver, a fourth-generation farmer, said shesa国际传媒檚 motivated to keep going by her love of growing food for people.

sa国际传媒淢aybe wesa国际传媒檒l rip out our peaches and then Isa国际传媒檒l grow something else,sa国际传媒 she said

sa国际传媒淚f the climate isnsa国际传媒檛 loving peaches or apricots going forward, then wesa国际传媒檒l take everything out and grow something else.sa国际传媒

This is the second story in a three-part series, sa国际传媒淏.C.sa国际传媒檚 bitter harvest,sa国际传媒 examining the consequences of weather and climate crises for agriculture, and how farmers and others are charting a path forward.

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